The Revolution: Histoire
One of my biggest questions on my return to Paris was 'where are the museums dedicated to the history of the revolution?'. Here in the crucible of the Republic there are so few memorials. But I did fine one! The Musee Carnavalet is widely respected on the internet yet thoroughly hidden and un-signposted in the 3rd arrondissement. I mistook both a lycee on break and a French cafe for the entrance. But do find it.
Why? Its free. It is the most comprehensive history of Paris I've seen. Architecturally they've skinned various places from the inside and erected them inside the museum.
If you like potted histories of art, this is your place. If you want to learn about French costume and fashion history, its also your place at least til March. For me the real value of this place was the comprehensive collection of the Revolution as expressed through paintings, rope ladders, letters and other ephemera. I found it really helpful for locating what was going on in Paris during the Revolution; my only previous knowledge was what could be gleaned from Les Mis.
La cité de l'amour
Paris is famous for being the city of love; I saw several things that warmed my heart but I have to say I was low on romance. When myself and my two amigos emerged on Ile de la Cite we followed the sounds of birds cawing to a market full of caged birds and fluffy bunnies. It reminded me of all the books I've read where women are offered caged birds as love tokens and I just thought 'eww!'. The birds are so obviously sad and stuck and the bunnies too were balding and sad. So many things we buy for loved ones; chocolate, diamonds, little pets; with the best of intentions, I think I'll stick to cards!
Far more happily within 5 mins of getting off the tube my friend was snapped up by a Japanese fashion magazine. She deserves it cos she's gorgeous but I don't think any of us were expecting it!
Once we'd been papp'ed we made our way to the Southbank, passing Notre Dame with a cursory glance, in pursuit of Shakespeare and co. This is a bookshop; and you know how any old bookshop renders me helpless but this one had my knees all aquiver! We're talking two floors of higgledy-piggledy, gorgeous shelves, antiquarian and modern editions, a tubby white shop cat, live piano and even a cute little writing space. If heaven is like Shakespeare and co., but with fewer tourists, I'll be happy. Safe to say I bought things, and I'm not sorry.
Pain Quotidien
The whole reason I was in Paris was to witness
the Private View of a dear friend and artist. He was displaying his work
at ParisCONCRET. Its a gorgeous little gem of a venue run by two Kiwis,
Richard and Anna Van der Aa and features (bi)monthly contemporary art
exhibitions. Its well worth a lok and free to visit.
Something else that is just part of daily life in
France is getting on and off the metro. There are almost as many different exit
systems as there are tube lines but one I had particular familiarity with is
the rotate-y handle thingamywhatsit! I almost didn’t board a train because of
those handles once. Then I realised I had to feel the fear and do it anyway! We
enjoyed feeling slightly like James Bond as we exited the train whilst it was
still in motion.
Finally, French food. It is delightful. We really
enjoyed access to cheap, delicious French cheese and wine and bread, pain quotidien.
One morning I decided to go out for
breakfast and this version of a fry-up met my eyes; it looks like a smiley face
I think!
Tune in next time for a trip round Pere Lachaise.
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