Today I decided to stay fairly local to Avignon itself, exploring its famous UNESCO protected Palais des Papes and the nearby town of Villeneuve-lez-Avignon.
Palais des Papes
The Palais is a massive palace built by the Popes, primarily in the fourteenth century. It is a large fortified space with all of the characteristics of a castle, stores for money and food, a Great Hall for entertaining, large walls for defence. As usual I bought an audio guide, unlike the tour of Nimes Amphitheatre this tour focussed on explaining what was on show in a historical context or with heed of the archaeology, much less interested in creating a narrative to spark the imagination.
One clever feature of the tours was that the videos installed around the building were auto-synched with the headsets meaning that not everyone in the room was subject to the noise and all visitors were able to watch the video with audio in their own language. They also made heavy use of the touch screen capability of the audio guides to show more content.
My criticisms: 1. The route around the Palais was not easy to follow, often having to guess which way to turn for the next step, this wouldn’t have been a problem if not for, 2. The centre of the Palais was full of staging, as at Nimes and thus you had to trust the route to know you hadn’t missed anything, 3. The art exhibition at the site, included bits of dead horse in the chapel - I’m note sure about that. 4. on the audio commentary they kept telling you the room’s ornaments weren’t original - either get some that are or mention it once - the cumulative effect of telling us every time made me think, ‘is anything here original?’
(Palais des Papes)
Leaving Avignon behind me I ruminated on the reality that most of intra-mural Avignon is UNESCO protected - and how, just at Djenne, that will have both supported the town (through tourism) and limited it - all the roads are really narrow - too narrow for road transport really, most housing is 18th century or older. If you are an inhabitant of the city both the tourists and the lack of infrastructure can be quite frustrating…
Villeneuve-lez-Avignon
Crossing the river on the modern Pont d’Avignon I walked to the town of Villeneuve-lez-Avignon. Lonely Planet said it was like Avignon without the crowds. Whilst walking Avignon’s battlements I had seen several buildings that looked interesting so decided to seek them out - at first merely heading in the ‘right’ direction. As at Marseille this decision to go off book, didn’t pay dividends. I ended up walking a very long way round for some mediocre views and several main roads. The stripey building was nice though. Reconciled to my need to start again I came across a far better path. Containing amongst other things a windmill, a tower and a donkey! The Phillipe le Bel tower was a mere snip at just 1.50€ with my Avignon tourist pass) and provided an amazing panorama of Avignon and the surrounding region, you all know how I love climbing towers by now.
(Hello Donkey)
After I had greeted the donkey in the appropriate fashion I found the old town which had previously eluded me and stopped for a bit of lunch. I had goats cheese and fig chutney and a lot of slightly pretentious lemonade. Chic Picnic were very accommodating. Feeling like myself again I found the Abbey and Gardens (cheaper than Avignon again at just 5.50€, and without the crowds) were the source of all those fortifications so visible from the battlements of Avignon. I also found another abbey (Chartreaux - 13th century and similarly fortified) but requesting 7€ entry fee at 4pm I gave it a miss and instead stumbled upon the Olive Mill - what a find!
In this part of the world olive oil is a big deal and the restrictions on its quality are similar to the restrictions on wine - the best have appelations. With both better quality and lower prices than Avignon’s tourist district I made the most of buying presents here. And then trotted back to Avignon about 45 mins walk, and only requires taking your life in your hands once or twice. Get a bus, the number 5 will take you!
With Villeneuve once again I rued my lack of car transport which would have made all the difference, enabling me to jump between sites with ease, but again whether I’d have had the confidence to drive on such inclines and between such narrow passages I am less sure. I could definitely have spent longer in Villeneuve but after a while all these papal fortifications start to blur into one like a never ending game of Carcassonne and its time to go home.
Quick note: Cinema Utopia
Tomorrow the return to English soil.
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