France Daily IV: Chateauneuf

Today I thought I’d invest in my heritage and go on a wine tour; when in the south of France…

I booked the tour from the local tourist office a few days before and then a sleek black minicab picked me up at 9 am. Its a full day’s work this wine tasting malarky. I was joined on the tour by 5 americans including one who claimed she was English because she lived in London, I know.

For the modest (!) sum of 110€ we had a comprehensive chauffeur service including the setting of our seating, ‘you are on vacation!’, a tour of the local wine museum (its free to visit), a lesson in wine tasting and visiting 4 vineyards. I think if you had access to a car and had done your research in advance you could probably have done the whole thing yourself with much less cost. Driving through the village of Chateauneuf just pick a sign that looks interesting, park in the drive and have a ‘dégustation gratuit’ in the salesrooms. The benefit of the tour was access to a car (I was on public transport - it would have been pretty tiring on a bike!), the wine tasting session and going to see the caves. I guess the sommelier wisdom also played its part too but to what degree I don’t know.

(messing about in the vineyards)

The wine tasting lesson itself was hilarious - some aspects of it were infinitely practical - telling age by colour and taste. The description of flavour however seemed farcical, you can claim it smells like anything you want it to - including peaches, leather, smoke or indeed grapes, as long as you can attach it to a scent ‘family’. Similarly the last smell test when the wine is gone, for which you have to raise your glass like a trumbone possibly added for comedic effect.

One of my favourite parts of the day was lunch. We went to a little place right next to the Popes summer-house called Le Verger des Papes. With the Rhone, mountains and endless rows of vines as a backdrop the food is just so vibrant, vine tomatoes, chickens with herbes de provence and of course plenty of Chateauneuf.

(not a bad view!)

There was always the opportunity to buy and I regret not buying La Fiole du Pape, not just because it comes in a funny wobbly bottle but because it had a lovely fruity flavour (hyporitical I know). If you’re interested I bought one red and one white Chateauneuf from Roger Sabon, I didn’t know until today that you could white Chateauneuf apparently its a bit unusual. Neither of those will be drinkable for a little while, so into the cellar they go. I also bought a Rasteau because I like sweet dessert wines. 

(Wine Caves Chateauneuf)

In all I enjoyed learning new things about wine and the commaraderie of jumping in the minibus - for a lone traveller definitely a benefit. Tomorrow - Palais des Papes, Villeneuf lez Avignon and the impact of UNESCO, maybe a film too we’ll see. For now, santé!